A new wave of visitors is rediscovering Aleppo, an ancient trading center, eager to take advantage of its low prices, spicy cuisine and mazelike bazaar.

Anyone familiar with the politics of the Levant knows its governments’ propensity to monitor reporters, & many of us “heard” what was left out of this piece when Ms. Amos listed members of Aleppo’s ethno-religious mix. Serious students of Middle Eastern food history know about the ancient community of Jews, whose renowned dishes were once a piece of Aleppo’s culinary mosaic.(Jewish dietary restrictions fostered distinctive variations of classic Aleppo dishes.)

Today, members of the Aleppine diaspora here in the Americas, like so many immigrant communities before them, define themselves through their cooking. Many who keep alive Aleppo Jewery’s cuisine-within-a-cuisine would love to return to the land where it all began, to experience this Syrian renaissance.

Damascus,Washington,Tel Aviv–tune in! Keep cooking, Brooklyn & Buenos Aires, where okra still simmers in tamarind sauce…

We who love the cuisines of the Middle East are acutely aware of their power–to ignite friendships & melt differences.Opening Syrian borders to gastro-tourism is a welcome development. I can hear the kibbe frying…

http://skiplombardi.org/aromas-of-aleppo/

http://hollychase.com/the-flavors-of-old-stamboul/

Purim celebrates the miracle that happened on the 13th of Adar in 356 BCE in the ancient city of Shushan, which is located in modern- day Iran near the southwestern town of Dezful. It was there that Esther, a clandestine Jewess in King Ahasveros’s royal harem, arose to foil the decree of the king’s evil minister Haman to destroy the Jews in the kingdom. Haman drew lots ( purim in Hebrew) and selected the 13th of Adar as the date on which his decree of annihilation would take effect. To help her people avert a tragic end, Esther, at her own great risk, revealed her true identity to the king while he was making merry at a wine banquet. She asked him to issue a counterdecree. Ahasveros, enamored of Esther’s purity, complied and issued an order protecting the Jews of his kingdom and permitting them to defend themselves against anyone seeking to do them harm. The Jewish people averted disaster, and their fortune was reversed. What was first anticipated to be a somber day of mourning and destruction turned into a joyous and momentous festival.

Purim is primarily observed by fulfilling four positive commandments: Jews are required to hear the reading of the Book of Esther (megillah) on the eve and on the morning of the festival, give charity to at least two poor people (matanot l’evyonim in Hebrew), send special parcels called mishloah manot to friends and family, and eat a sumptuous feast. Each mishloah manot must include at least two ready-to-eat foods; giving more than that is praiseworthy. Aleppian Jews arrange numerous baskets filled with candies, chocolates, fruits, nuts, and wine. Sweets that make a great addition to the mishloah are simsemiyeh (Sesame Candy, page 305), halweh (Sesame Sweetmeat, page 304), baklawa (Pistachio Filla Wedges in Rose Water Syrup, page 251), graybeh (Sweet Bracelet- Shaped Butter Cookies, page 267), eras b’ajweh ( Date- Filled Crescents, page 268), and assabih b’loz ( Nut- Filled Filla Fingers, page 261). The daylight hours of Purim are spent transporting one’s festively costumed children to deliver these parcels.

The afternoon of Purim is dedicated to an elaborate feast, which usually includes numerous meat dishes and copious amounts of wine. The consumption of wine is encouraged on this festival because it was while under the intoxicating sway of wine that Ahasveros assented to Esther’s bold request to help the Jews of his kingdom. Esther also called for a wine banquet as a ruse to summon Haman to the king’s court to expose his treachery.

There is a saying that on Purim one should drink until one can no longer distinguish between the righteousness of Mordechai (Esther’s encouraging uncle) and the wickedness of Haman. Whether you choose to drink this much is up to you—but what better way to do so than with a fabulous meal of rich Aleppian dishes such as laham b’ajeen (Miniature Tamarind Minced Meat Pies, page 50), kuaisat ( Pistachio- Filled Ground Meat Shells, page 60), kibbeh b’garaz (Sweet- Cherry– Stuffed Beef Slices, page 166), yebra (Grape Leaves Stuffed with Ground Meat and Rice, with Apricot-Tamarind Sauce, page 150), rubuh’ (Succulent Roast Veal Stuffed with Spiced Ground Meat and Rice, page 168), and whatever else your festive heart desires.

The definition of the Arabic word ma’amoul is “filled.” It is a small rounded pastry made with decorative molds called tabe’. The nut filling is inserted into a hollow shell in the pastry and then closed. The filled pastry is then placed inside the mold. Each mold shape indicates a different type of ma’amoul filling. A flat- topped pastry usually means a date filling, while a pointy top usually means some kind of nut filling.

When the ma’amoul are baked, the embossed design becomes more prominent and very beautiful. Another option is to decorate the ma’amoul with a special pincher (called mulaht) with a serrated edge. Using this tool, which is sold at Middle Eastern groceries, you can crimp the top of the rounded pastry about four times. Ma’amoul is a Purim staple, along with kra’bij ( Marshmallow- Dipped Nut- Stuffed Pastry, page 269).

Dough:
2 cups all- purpose flour
1 cup smead (semolina)
2 teaspoon rose water (optional)
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine

Filling:
1 pound pistachio nuts, shelled, blanched, peeled, and chopped (see page 310)
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
1-2 teaspoon orange blossom water

1. To make the dough, combine the flour and smead in a large mixing bowl until the mixture has a crumbly consistency. Add rose water, if desired. Fold in the butter and add 1/4 to 1/2 cup lukewarm water. Knead the dough well and cover.

2. To make the filling, combine the pistachios, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, the butter, and orange blossom water.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

4. To form the pastries, divide the dough into 4 portions. Work with 1 portion at a time, keeping the rest covered as you work. Pinch a walnut- size ball from the dough. Press down on the center with your finger, forming a 1/2-inch indentation. Fill the indentation with 3/4 teaspoon of the filling. Close the pastry with your thumb and forefinger. If using the special ma’amoul mold, press the top of the pastry firmly against the mold to impress the desired pattern onto the pastry. Lightly tap the mold on a hard surface to remove the pastry. Place the pastry on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

5. Bake for 12 minutes, or until the bottoms of the pastries are lightly browned and the tops remain pale. Sprinkle the ma’amoul with the remaining 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar before serving.

Yield: 30 pastries

My partner & I are Syrian Catholics from Homs & Aleppo, but we were born in Sydney, Australia.

We found your book in a book store yesterday and found all his favorite recipes which he teases me that “are only available in Aleppo” (not Homs)

We compared them to his mother & grandmother’s recipes and they were spot on!

Needless to say, we bought it straight away and will pass it onto our children, so they can know the cuisine of their heritage.

Thanks for putting together such a great collection of recipes and staying true to the beautiful city of Aleppo!

Take Care,
Christine & Anthony

Melting Pot is divided into six chapters, one for each of the Five Books of the Torah, with the last chapter celebrating the Jewish and Israeli festivals. Each chapter is dedicated to a particular meal course, in addition to commemorating each of the six decades since the State of Israel’s founding.

Just as the State of Israel unifies the Jewish communities in Israel and throughout the world, so too, Melting Pot integrates vibrant Jewish voices from the world over, forming a joint tribute of love for our Homeland.

In the Ethics of the Fathers, Rabbi Shimon says: “Three who eat together and speak words of Torah, it is as if they had eaten at God’s table.” A brand new book, launched this week in Israel, brings together food and Torah, giving its readers the opportunity to share their meal with the Divine presence.

Melting Pot, written to honour the State of Israel during its 60th year, reflects the many Jewish voices and tastes from Israel and all over the world.

There is a recipe to match each week’s Torah portion – with an additional chapter for other Jewish and Israeli festivals – combined with a specially-written article by leading educators in the Jewish world. For example, Chief Rabbi Sir Jonathan Sacks’ commentary is paired with a recipe for Kubaneh, a sweet Yemenite bread, thus combining the spiritual excellence of Britain with the cultural flavours of the Middle East.

Just as Israel has brought together every ethnic group, making for a vibrant and colourful country, this book has also combined renowned teachers and delicious food from across the globe, catering for the reader’s physical and spiritual needs.

Other contributors include Rabbi Shlomo Riskin, Rebbetzin Esther Jungreis, Dr Raphael Zarum and Chief Rabbi Yona Metzger. Also Among the writers: Minister Isaac Herzog, Chief Rabbi of Israel Yona Metzger , Chief Rabbi of England Sir Jonathan Sacks , Chief Rabbi of South Africa Dr. Warren Goldstein, Rabbi Elazar Muskin, Rebbetzin Esther Jungreis ,Naomi Ragen, Chairmen of the Jewish Agency Mr. Zeev Bielski, Rabanit Esti Rosenberg, Rabbi Mosheh Lichtenstein, Rabbi Shlomo Riskin, President of Yeshiva University Dr. Richard Joel, Susie Fishbein , Rabbi Shmuley Boteach, Susie Fishbein, Norene Gillitz, Poopa Dweck, , Sherri Mandell , Rabbanit Malke Bina, Rabbi Levi Cooper, Ann Harris, Rabbi Member Knesset Michael Melchior , Rakel Berenbaum , Rabbi Chaim Brovender ,Rabbi Hershel and Rebbetzin Rookie Billet , Dr. Deborah Weissman, Dr. Yael Ziegler, Batya Hefter, Rabbi Yehoshua Fass , Rebbetzin Shira Smiles, Member Knesset Yuli Edelstein , Dr. Dassi Jacobson , Rabbanit Chana Henkin, Dr Susan Weingarten, Chagit Rein.

In addition to their insights, every page is adorned with outstanding photography of the mouth-watering dishes.

Melting Pot is a masterpiece, and should feature in every Jewish home. It was edited by Dafi Kremer, and has been dedicated in memory of Ehud Goldwasser and Eldad Regev, who died while defending their homeland.

As Israel embarks on its seventh decade, this new book serves up spiritual and savoury delights for the Jewish palate, with something special for every day of the year. Review taken from TOTALLYJEWISH.COM

Hardcover
English
For Hebrew Version see Matamei Hamikra
215 pp
2008
ISBN 2320010031190

The Pre-fast Meal on the Eve of Yom Kippur

Recipe:

Riz w’Djaj -  Rice with Chicken

For this dish, the rice is cooked in the chicken broth to achieve a rich flavor. Another Arabic variation to this dish is to perfume the stock with  1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon and 1 teaspoon of cardamom. Cardamom has an intense aroma and an exotic, earthy flavor. This is a simple, filling chicken dish that is enhanced with the addition of beida bi’lemouneh (Velvety Lemon Sauce).

3 onions, chopped (about 1¾ cup)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

One 3 to 4 pound chicken

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Pinch of white pepper (optional)

1 heaping teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

1 teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric (optional)

3 cups long-grain white rice

Beida bi’lemouneh (Velvety Lemon Sauce, page 198)

1.         In a large pot, sauté the onions in the vegetable oil over medium heat for 4 to 6 minutes, or until translucent.  Add 3 quarts of water, along with the chicken. Add the salt and white pepper, if using. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 40 minutes, or until fork-tender.

2.         Remove the chicken and transfer to a platter. Remove all but 4½ cups of cooking liquid from the pot.  Reserve the excess for the Velvety Lemon Sauce.

3.         Bone the chicken. Return the chicken meat back to the pot. Add the allspice and, if desired, cinnamon and cardamom.  If you want a bit of bright yellow color, add turmeric. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.  Add the rice and stir. When the liquid comes to a boil again, reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer for 45 minutes, or until the rice is fluffy and all liquid is absorbed.  Serve with beida bi’lemouneh

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Rosh Hashanah literally means “the beginning of the year.” In Hebrew it is called Yom Ha Din, “the day of judgment,” when the Jewish people stand before G-d to be judged.

To read more about this excerpt from Aromas of Aleppo, click here